Speaking British Bespoke
I have a longstanding respect for the British sartorial tradition, which has essentially defined how the well dressed gentleman should appear. The foundation of this definition is the meticulous, hand-done craftsmanship exemplified by Savile Row. The traits of bespoke tailoring - fitting the garment to the wearer’s body, using highest-quality materials, crafting for longevity - are very dear to me and essential to my designs.
I attended British boarding school and continued on to study mathematics in London. Living in the UK for years I came to recognize and appreciate British clothing. What at first might seem regimented or formal, belies a grace and ease. In general I find the British very put together. There is a strong sense of ceremony, and respect for its power to make events more meaningful. This respect for tradition carries over to a respect for yourself, and for others. Living with traditions, honoring heritage, dressing the part, maintains a standard. What’s considered “untraditional” is often given a romantic cast, but living without traditions can lead us to indulge in being too casual, or even sloppy, especially with regard to our appearance.
I feel kinship with the bespoke aesthetic - that clothes should enhance, but never overshadow, the wearer’s appearance. This view of clothing in a supporting role is inseparable from the notion of comfort. Not a casual or unkempt comfort, but a comfort which elevates one’s appearance and very movement through designs and materials that are simply a pleasure to wear. When the textiles are appealing to the touch, and there is the freedom of motion achieved through a custom fit - no bunching or pulling, one feels both relaxed and confident. In this regard, fine tailoring allows your true self to emerge.
Inherent to this design philosophy is sustainability. When a suit or pair of shoes are crafted by hand, with naturally durable materials, they are maintained and repaired rather than thrown into landfill upon showing signs of wear. A jacket might get let-out or taken-in as bodies change. Shoes get polished and reheeled, much like taking your car to the shop. This comes from an appreciation for longevity.
I have long lasting relationships with my pieces - I wear my original coats from thirteen years ago and they still look as sharp as when they were first created. If anything, the subtle way they adapt to the body through wear makes them even more special.
This element of timelessness in men’s bespoke tailoring is something I admire. Classic design is not subject to fashion trends. My first coats, unchanged from when I began my brand, are still among the most sought after and pair beautifully with more recent pieces. In the atelier, I’m able to let my imagination run. It is a workshop, but also a bit of a laboratory, where I can test out new ideas. But my design is always rooted in a sense of the classic, the elegant. Bespoke tailoring is not stuck in the past: it evolves in pursuit of an ideal - the perfect suit - with refinements, advancements made over time and trial.
When we integrate quality objects and materials into our lives, and treat them with the care they deserve, the attention we bestow upon those things, radiates back onto ourselves. This glowing awareness develops our respect for life’s moments, and ultimately hones our sense of properness. Such reverence for the proper can be felt as a passion and seen in how you live. Making an effort in selecting your ensembles, in putting yourself together, shows you care. In a discrete, British way, this reveals a sensuality as well - appreciation of the wonder of touch, of fluid movement - and knowing it’s the perfect fit for you.
