Material Anatomy: Xiang Yun Silk

 

 

We approach every collection at Lan Jaenicke with a reverence for craftsmanship and a passion for materiality. With Series No. 23, we’re particularly excited to debut an extraordinary silk: Xiang Yun. An exquisite material known as “Tea silk” or “Mud silk,” it is crafted through a 2,500-year-old natural dyeing process. Cool to the touch, this silk is also an ideal fabric for summer.



Recognized by UNESCO as a part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of China, “Mud-silk is made by dyeing woven silk before spreading iron-rich river mud on the dry fabric, which is then baked in the sun,” notes the Royal British Columbia Museum. Traditional Chinese symbols are often incorporated, including “circles, which represent perfection, and groups of four squares, which represent prosperity.” 

 

 

The making of mud silk. Images courtesy of Selvedge.


In Series No. 23, two special garments are made of Xiang Yun silk. The Xiang Yun Silk Wrap Dress features solid brass buttons running on a diagonal, evoking the traditional Chinese Qipao dress design. The sleek, low-waist silhouette gives it a modern, relaxed elegance and seductiveness.


The Xiang Yun Silk Wrap Dress

 

 

 

The Sumi Top, named after the fluid depth of ink, achieves complex ranges of black thanks to the unique properties of the heritage Xiang Yun dyeing process. The distinct sheen of the fabric and particular drape are underscored by woven cashmere trim. 

 

“The Sumi Top, named after the fluid depth of ink, achieves complex ranges of black thanks to the unique properties of the heritage Xiang Yun dyeing process.” 

 

 

Sumi Top in black Xiang Yun silk and Cashmere Ribbon Cloche Hat 

 

Black and white with touches of gold, Series No. 23 embodies powerful, dynamic essences—Yin and Yang, geometry and fluidity, and, in both form and heritage material, tradition and modernity.

 

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